Kenora

Lake of the Woods: Ontario's Last Stand Before the Prairies

Northwestern Ontario
Highway 17
Worth half a day to 1 day
Pop. ~15,000

Why Kenora Feels Different

After driving through the endless boreal forest of northern Ontario, Kenora comes as a genuine surprise. The trees open up, the landscape softens, and suddenly you are on the shores of Lake of the Woods, a massive lake system with over 14,500 islands that stretches into Manitoba and Minnesota. Kenora is a lake town, and it has the feel of one: marinas, houseboats, fishing lodges, and a relaxed waterfront atmosphere that is completely different from the highway towns to the east.

Kenora is also the last Ontario town on the Trans-Canada before you cross into Manitoba. The border is only about 50 kilometres west. For westbound drivers, it is the final stretch of Canadian Shield before the prairies flatten out. For eastbound drivers, it is the first hint that Ontario's geography is about to get a lot more interesting.

Husky the Muskie

You cannot discuss Kenora without mentioning Husky. This 36-foot-tall, two-ton fiberglass muskellunge has stood in McLeod Park since July 1, 1967. Originally named through a public contest, the full name is "Husky the Muskie" with the slogan "Prevent Water Pollution." He is one of the most photographed roadside attractions in Canada and has been drawing Trans-Canada travellers off the highway for nearly six decades.

Husky is now behind some protective fencing after repeated incidents of graffiti and damage, but you can still get a good photo. He sits right on the waterfront, so combine your visit with a walk along the harbour.

Lake of the Woods

Lake of the Woods is enormous: roughly 4,350 square kilometres with a shoreline so convoluted that it has more than 65,000 miles of it. The lake has been a destination for fishing, cottaging, and houseboat vacations for over a century. Kenora is the main service hub.

If you have time, a boat tour of the lake is the best way to experience it. Several operators run tours from the Kenora harbour. Even from shore, the views are impressive. Norman Park Beach has a sandy swimming area, a playground, and a splash pad, making it a good stop for families. The water is warmer than Lake Superior and actually swimmable in July and August.

Fishing is the big draw. Lake of the Woods is famous for walleye, muskellunge, northern pike, and bass. If you have any interest in fishing, this is one of the best freshwater fisheries in North America. You can arrange a guided trip from Kenora with a day's notice during summer.

Tip: Kenora's waterfront Harbourfront area has been redeveloped in recent years with a pleasant walking path, restaurants, and shops. It is a much nicer town than most people expect. Budget at least a couple of hours to walk around if the weather is good.

Tunnel Island and the Trans-Canada Bridge

The Trans-Canada Highway passes through Kenora via a bridge to Tunnel Island, which was built in 1959 as part of the original coast-to-coast highway project. The former road bed now serves as parking and green space. It is a small piece of Trans-Canada history, and the views from the bridge are excellent.

Time Zone Change

Be aware that Kenora is in the Central Time Zone, same as Manitoba and Winnipeg. If you are coming from Thunder Bay (Eastern Time), you lost an hour somewhere along Highway 17. The exact change point is not always clearly marked. Set your clock when you arrive in Kenora and adjust your plans accordingly.

The Drive to Winnipeg

From Kenora, Winnipeg is about 200 kilometres and roughly two hours of driving. The landscape changes dramatically as you cross into Manitoba. The Shield gives way to flat prairie. The forest thins. By the time you reach the Whiteshell area of Manitoba, you are in lake country again, but it feels completely different from Ontario. The Manitoba border crossing has no formal checkpoint; you just see a sign and the road surface may change.

Heads Up: The stretch between Kenora and Winnipeg can be deceptive. The road is relatively flat and straight, which breeds complacency. This section has a high accident rate due to drivers falling asleep or passing unsafely. Take breaks. Do not rush the last two hours.

Practical Information

Kenora has full services but is smaller than you might expect. There are grocery stores, fuel stations, a hospital, and a reasonable selection of restaurants and hotels. The Best Western and Comfort Inn are reliable options. For dining, the waterfront area has the best options.

Kenora is a popular summer cottage destination, which means accommodation fills up quickly in July and August, especially on long weekends. Book ahead if visiting in summer. Camping options include Anicinabe Park, a municipal campground right on the lake that is surprisingly pleasant.

Must Do

Top Stops in Kenora

  • Husky the Muskie in McLeod Park
  • Harbourfront waterfront walk
  • Norman Park Beach (swimming, splash pad)
  • Lake of the Woods boat tour
  • Fishing charter (if time allows)
Distances

From Kenora

  • Winnipeg: 200 km (2h)
  • Thunder Bay: 490 km (5h)
  • Manitoba Border: 50 km (30min)
  • Dryden: 140 km (1h 30min)
Time Zone

Central Time

Kenora is on Central Time, same as Winnipeg. If coming from Thunder Bay or eastern Ontario, you are one hour behind. The change happens along Highway 17 between Thunder Bay and Kenora.