Nipigon & Lake Superior

The Bridge That Cut Canada in Half

On January 10, 2016, the Nipigon River Bridge failed. All 40 bolts attaching a main deck girder to the northwest bearing sheared off during a winter storm, lifting the deck by 60 centimetres. The Trans-Canada Highway was severed. For 17 hours, there was no way to drive across Canada.

This was not a minor inconvenience. Nipigon sits at the only point where the Trans-Canada has a single crossing. There is no alternative route. An estimated $100 million in goods per day moves by truck through this corridor. When the bridge failed, eastern and western Canada were physically disconnected by road for the first time since the highway was completed in 1962.

The bridge was partially reopened the next morning using one lane alternating between directions. A new cable-stay bridge, the first of its kind in Ontario, was completed in November 2018 with two lanes in each direction. Today, driving over it feels unremarkable, but it is worth knowing the story. This is the most critical single point on the entire Trans-Canada Highway.

The Nipigon River

The Nipigon River connects Lake Nipigon to Lake Superior and is famous among anglers as one of the best brook trout rivers in the world. The current world record brook trout, at 14.5 pounds, was caught here in 1915. That record stood for over a century. The river is stunning, running through a narrow canyon with deep green water and red-rock walls.

Even if you do not fish, the Nipigon River Recreation Trail offers walking access along the river through old-growth boreal forest. The trail is easy to moderate and gives you views of the river and canyon without needing a boat. It is one of the most underrated short hikes on the Trans-Canada.

Lake Superior's North Shore

The stretch of Highway 17 between Nipigon and Sault Ste. Marie is arguably the most scenic section of the Trans-Canada in Ontario. The road hugs the Lake Superior coastline, climbing over headlands and dipping into bays. The views are immense. On clear days, you can see across the open lake to the horizon, and the scale of Superior becomes apparent: this is the largest freshwater lake by surface area on Earth.

Key viewpoints and stops along this stretch include:

• Terrace Bay Lookout: The lighthouse at Terrace Bay offers panoramic views of Lake Superior. Time it for sunset if you can.
• Neys Provincial Park: A beautiful campground on a peninsula jutting into Lake Superior, with a beach and hiking trails. The park also has a dark history as a World War II prisoner-of-war camp.
• Pebble Beach (Marathon): A peaceful cobblestone beach with stunning lake views, especially at sunset.
• Chippewa Falls: The official halfway point of the Trans-Canada Highway, with a pedestrian bridge offering views of the falls.
• White Lake Provincial Park: About an hour from Neys, with good camping and swimming.

Red Rock

Just south of Nipigon, the small community of Red Rock sits at the mouth of the Nipigon River where it enters Lake Superior. The name comes from the dramatic red granite cliffs in the area. Red Rock has a small marina and offers views of Nipigon Bay. It is a quick detour off the highway and gives you a different perspective of the lake.

Practical Information

Nipigon is a small community with basic services: a couple of gas stations, a few restaurants, and a motel or two. It is not a place to plan a long stay, but it is a necessary fuel stop. The town sits at the junction of Highway 11 (coming from the north) and Highway 17, making it a convergence point for Trans-Canada traffic.

From Nipigon, Thunder Bay is about 105 kilometres west (roughly 1 hour and 10 minutes). Heading east toward White River and Wawa, you are looking at a long haul through increasingly sparse territory. Fill up here.

If you want to camp in this area, Neys Provincial Park and White Lake Provincial Park are the best options. Both are along Highway 17 between Nipigon and White River and offer proper campgrounds with amenities.